|
The finest white Bordeaux and the most classic and refined reds.
Pessac-Léognan (PEH-sak
lay-ohn-yawn)
One of the top appellations within Graves, Pessac-Léognan is home to the only Graves chateau listed as a first-growth in the 1855 Médoc classification – Chateau
Haut-Brion. In fact, praise for the chateau dates back to the days of Thomas Jefferson, when, upon visiting the chateau in
1787, bought 125 bottles for his cellar in Virginia. Pessac-Léognan is also known for producing some of the finest dry white
wines of Bordeaux.
Notable Facts The majority of wines made here are red, but their dry white wines are excellent as well. Many
of the top chateau, like Chateau Haut Brion and Chateau Mission Haut Brion, produce top-quality whites alongside their red.
Other Chateaux, like Smith Haut Lafite and Carbonnieux, are better known for their distinguished whites than reds. Both colors
of wine from Pessac-Léognan have the specific tastes of the gravelly soil where it's grown.

A tasting of Pessac-Léognan
February, 2007
A tasting of whites and reds from five different Pessac châteaux produced the following results. The wineries included
Brown, Bouscaut (Cru Classé de Graves), Ferran, de Crfuzeau, and La Louvière.
Pessac-Léognan is perhaps our favorite Bordeaux appelation. It is one of the most historic--home to Châteaux Haut Brion
and Carbonnieux, among others--and intrudes geophysically right into contemporary Bordeaux city. This was the original home
of "claret," exported in such great volume to the British Isles. Until 1987, Pessac was part of the Graves appelation, and
produces extremely high quality reds, but also long-lived and well-structured whites. There are about 1,500 hectares of vineyard.
There are two calssifications: regular Pessac-Léognan and Cru Classé. Haut-Brion is both a Cru Classé of Pessac and a
1ier Grand Cru of the 1855 Medoc classification.
In addition to the organized tasting, we have also recently tried a few other Pessac vintages of note, included below.
The standout was Château Brown, 2005 (white), which we scored 5/5. This may not be a wine for everyone,
and is quite distinct from most Bordeaux whites. Rounded and opulent, with the refined Bordeaux style, it has flavors
and aromas of flowers and citrus, with some peach and a bit of mineral charcter. We also tried the 2002, which was equally
as good, though perhaps a little less refined.
The Brown 2002 red scored a 3/5 and displayed a dark red colour and gravelly bouquet with light berry flavors and a food
mouthfeel.
Château Ferran white, 2004, 2/5. Red, 2003, 4/5 with a ruby red color, big bouquet, floral and rose,
tasting of cherries with violet on the finish. A good match for Creole food.
Château Bousacut white, 2004, 2/5--washed out (a little too subtle), but not at all objecionable. Red
2003, 4/5, ruby color, gravel and light fruit on the nose; well balanced to taste with very fragrant cherry tones and a good,
lingering finish.
Château La Louvière white 2005, 2/5 and red 3/5, light in color, with leather and vanilla accents.
Château de Cruzeau white, 2003, 4/5 with a faint bouquet but pleasing buttery flavor with citrus and
butterscotch notes; red, 2003 2/5 with a deep red color, fruity bouquet of berries, dry to the taste with light cherry flavors.
Château Carbonnieux red, 2004 4/5 is an extremely pleasant and well-balanced wine, drinkable now, with
cherry and berry flavor galore. The 2003 is also well balanced, a bit more tannic, 3/5.
Château Le Chevalier, 2001 5/5, open up a lot with a little breathing: cherry, strawberry, and rhubarb
notes, lingering finish. Very nice.
|