Food & Wine Lovers Guide to Granada

Start your day with a cafe con leche or a cortado at Bar Aixa, Plaza Larga, in the heart of the Albaycin. Try the typical tostados con tomate, drizzling them generously with extra virgin olive oil from nearby groves. This newly-rennovated but still cramped bar-cafe has existed as an institution in the Albayzin for decades and has recently earned mention by travel writers for El Pais, the well-reputed liberal newspaper. There is outside dining after the vegetable market shuts down, weather permitting. Some locals like to get a fresh start with their anis de mono or whiskey before 9 am. You can join them at Aixa if you wish. The place can be crowded at times, though you can ususally wrest a stool or table from someone with a little patience. Singing is now prohibited--the gypsy flamenco singers got to be too much.

For lunch, especially on the weekend, seriously consider Bar Kiki, just off the famous Mirador de San Nicolas (also in the Albayzin). The ever-present "Kiki" and has brother, red-faced Miguel along with two very professional waiters will help you pass the hours of a Saturday or Sunday afternoon outside people gazing, listening to the street music performers out to earn their keep for the week, and glorying in the Andalusian sunshine while drinking good Spanish wine and very nice food. Sample some of the entradas like home-made croquetas, fried sliced eggplant (ask for miel to go with it: cane syrup is wonderful with fried eggplant), marinated tomatoes with bonito, or a fritura of boquerones--little fish that you eat whole. Order a verdejo wine from Rueda, or your favorite from the list. Follow this with a mozarabic dish, like bacalao a la sefardi, or the pork with a sugary sauce and dates, and also take the waiter's recommendation for that day--last time it was a perfectly roasted leg of lamb. Forget dessert. Pay the bill and go back to Plaza Larga for ice cream.

Meander down through the heart of the Albaycin, through the souk-like streets of the Moroccan teterias, to Calle Elvira and Plaza Nueva. Here, have your morning repast at the elegant little Central Cafe. Their coffee and orange juice are particularly good.

Finally, save room in your stomach and within your budget for Cunini, Plaza Pescadería, 14, a seafood restaurant of undoubted character and quality. The comparison we like to make is with the old Galatoire's of New Orleans. This is a great place to go for tapas and drinks in the outer bar, which often spills out into the street. They also have dining outside. Four trips to this celebrated Granadino restaurants over 4 years have always returned more than satisfactory results--it's one of those places that has its own charm and identity. The fresh seafood is excellent and simply prepared. We typically order the mixed grill, which starts with a broad selection of mariscos and then a large plate of pescado. It is for a minimum of two persons, 25 euros each.

Grab a cafe con leche and tostada at your neighborhood bar for breakfast, and then head to Plaza Aliatar in the Albaycin for lunch. You can get a menu--a prix fixe meal--for very little dinero at Los Caracoles, which translates as the snails. Be sure to try their specialty--snails and garlic.

For dinner, the very elegant Mirador de Morayma will suit the bill. Hidden down a little alley, this is a chance to see a true Carmen--one of the distinctive arhitectural representations of Granada. A carmen is a small estate with gardens, terraces, fountains, and the main house, Morayma has enchanting views of the Alhambra Palace and is a joy just for the location. The food is very good as well, and the service professional if sometimes gruff. The house has lots of local specialties--the cardoon stew is excellent--and a nice wine list.