Two good wine stores in Granada
La Carte des Vins
Calle Navas, 29
Tel. 958 229 524
Though part of a chain, this little shop has a thoughtful selection of Spanish wines, including local products,
as well as some good French choices.
Calle Parraga, 5
Tel. 958 261 683
Among the best wine shops we've seen in Spain, this retail store and distibutors has turned from a sleepy
and ill-stocked place 4 years ago to an exciting experience in Spanish wine. +Q has pulled top-notch wines from across Spain
to one location--an excellent anitdote to seeing the same brands over and over again in supermarkets. To the extent possible,
each selection has notes and rating from the likes of Robert Parker and Wine Spectator.
Recommended food & wine store on Calle Elvira, lower Albaycin
Al Sur de Granada
Calle Elvira 150
Tel. 958 270 245
Located just next to the historic Puerta de Elvira, this well-considered shop focuses to every extent possible
on local food products and wines. "South of Granada" refers to the famous Alpujarra region, home to world-renowned hams, as
well as tasty wines and cheeses. The store has the broadest selection of wines from Granada province--whites, reds, and sparkling--to
be found anyywhere.
Granada: Three Days of Dining
Start your day with a cafe con leche or a cortado at Bar Aixa, Plaza Larga, in the
heart of the Albaycin. Try the typical tostados con tomate, drizzling them generously with extra virgin olive oil
from nearby groves. This newly-rennovated but still cramped bar-cafe has existed as an institution in the Albayzin for decades
and has recently earned mention by travel writers for El Pais, the well-reputed liberal newspaper. There is
outside dining after the vegetable market shuts down, weather permitting. Some locals like to get a fresh start with their
anis de mono or whiskey before 9 am. You can join them at Aixa if you wish. The place can be crowded at times, though
you can ususally wrest a stool or table from someone with a little patience. Singing is now prohibited--the gypsy flamenco
singers got to be too much.
For lunch, especially on the weekend, seriously consider Bar Kiki, just off the famous Mirador
de San Nicolas (also in the Albayzin). The ever-present "Kiki" and has brother, red-faced Miguel along with
two very professional waiters will help you pass the hours of a Saturday or Sunday afternoon outside people gazing, listening
to the street music performers out to earn their keep for the week, and glorying in the Andalusian sunshine while drinking
good Spanish wine and very nice food. Sample some of the entradas like home-made croquetas, fried sliced
eggplant (ask for miel to go with it: cane syrup is wonderful with fried eggplant), marinated tomatoes with bonito,
or a fritura of boquerones--little fish that you eat whole. Order a verdejo wine from Rueda, or
your favorite from the list. Follow this with a mozarabic dish, like bacalao a la sefardi, or the pork with a sugary
sauce and dates, and also take the waiter's recommendation for that day--last time it was a perfectly roasted leg of lamb.
Forget dessert. Pay the bill and go back to Plaza Larga for ice cream.
After Kiki for lunch, do not eat dinner. Instead go out for tapas. You can choose from a myriad of places near Plaza
Nueva and along Calle Elvira. Or, go to Realejo, the former Jewish district and home to royalty in the 16th century.
Meander down through the heart of the Albaycin, through the souk-like streets of the Moroccan teterias, to Calle
Elvira and Plaza Nueva. Here, have your morning repast at the elegant little Central Cafe. Their
coffee and orange juice are particularly good.
For lunch, save some money and try a chicken schwarma from one of the many Kebab vendors along Calle Elvira. One recommended
sport: Kebab King, Plaza San Gil.
Finally, save room in your stomach and within your budget for Cunini, Plaza Pescadería, 14, a seafood
restaurant of undoubted character and quality. The comparison we like to make is with the old Galatoire's of New Orleans.
This is a great place to go for tapas and drinks in the outer bar, which often spills out into the street. They also have
dining outside. Four trips to this celebrated Granadino restaurants over 4 years have always returned more than satisfactory
results--it's one of those places that has its own charm and identity. The fresh seafood is excellent and simply prepared.
We typically order the mixed grill, which starts with a broad selection of mariscos and then a large plate of pescado.
It is for a minimum of two persons, 25 euros each.
Grab a cafe con leche and tostada at your neighborhood bar for breakfast, and then head to Plaza Aliatar in the Albaycin
for lunch. You can get a menu--a prix fixe meal--for very little dinero at Los Caracoles, which
translates as the snails. Be sure to try their specialty--snails and garlic.
For dinner, the very elegant Mirador de Morayma will suit the bill. Hidden down a little alley, this
is a chance to see a true Carmen--one of the distinctive arhitectural representations of Granada. A carmen is a small estate
with gardens, terraces, fountains, and the main house, Morayma has enchanting views of the Alhambra Palace and is a joy just
for the location. The food is very good as well, and the service professional if sometimes gruff. The house has lots of local
specialties--the cardoon stew is excellent--and a nice wine list.